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Luxury shoes that do not cost our planet
Ye Gods. Are luxury brands chancing their luck? According to Jimmy Choo,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], "bespoke leathers and finishes, and highly specialised artisans in Italy" all bring about shinflation (a painful symptom in which an appreciation of quality footwear causes serious harm to the healthiness of one's wallet).
Within the words from the kitten heel-wearing Mandy Rice-Davies,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], they'd say that, wouldn't they? However they have a (finely chiselled) point. As shoes become more refined and shed their bondage straps and buckles, there is even more concentrate on construction. What seemed the acme of sophistication a few seasons ago can now look commonplace,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], or even crude. "Some of the simplest designs are the most complex to achieve," says a Jimmy Choo spokesperson. "The Anouk (£365 to £695), a pointy-toe pump, is an example of the total amount between form and function."
As tastes shift from bling and the meta platform (which, by the way, make feet look disconcertingly much like pigs' trotters), the entire notion of what a shoe represents has changed.
Culturally, for many women shoes now occupy a sacred place once restricted to jewellery: they're viewed as an investment that transcends seasons,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and elevate a dress-up costume. This theory gains currency when shoes may cost more than gold jewellery in the shops. Plus, shoes are often embellished with (fake) gems - they've become de facto jewellery,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], not just adding twinkle to a woman's toes but affirming today's
de rigueur
because-I'm-worth-it mind-set.
The upshot is even high street names have risen their game - and prices. Kurt Geiger, which manufactures shoes from £60 for its Carvela and KG labels, also produces Kurt Geiger London collection with shoes up to £395. "Italy, where most styles from your 'Kurt Geiger London' label are created, has experienced big tax increases," explains Geiger's creative director Rebecca Farrar-Hockley. Rising oil and petrol prices have had a direct effect about the production of leathers, buckles, studs, crystals.
Yet oddly,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], apart from Russell and Bromley and LK Bennett, no one is filling the chasm between blow-the-mortage-or-become-a-Russian-moll prices and cheap throwaways.
Until now,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], that is. When Lucy Choi found the Telegraph's offices to show me her new type of mid-priced shoes (starting at £98 for flat pumps and rising to £270 for boots), I'd never witnessed such a stampede. Colleagues I hadn't met before stopped to inquire about when they could purchase a pair. They couldn't - they were samples - but from today they can buy them from Choi's website. They should be a smash hit; 10 heel heights, from 5mm (a flat) to 110mm, she's offering 50 styles inside a numerous leathers and fabrics, and her court shoe (which is rapidly becoming the form of 2012) are just right, cut neither lacking nor too high.
Choi, 37, has form in this area. French Sole, the ballet pump specialists quintupled in size in the 10 years she was marketing director and then MD there, until she left this year. Her uncle is Jimmy Choo, who founded but no more works together with the eponymous shoe company. Her sister - older by two years - is Sandra Choi, creative director at Jimmy Choo. "That's one reason I wanted to create a brand only at that price level - and so i would not be rivaling my sister. She's worked so hard and I don't wish to not in favor of that," she says. "Also, there's this type of huge gap between the £700 fantasy and a shoe you can wear every single day."
Choi's mantra is quality along with a sense of luxury. So how can she provide it - and choice - at these prices? "No marketing or advertising budgets to begin with," she laughs, "or shops, to begin with." The majority of the shoes are manufactured in China - Choi says Italy has run out of the question for all but her priciest shoes. "I've been in the depths of China sourcing my manufacturing. I'm totally satisfied with the conditions in the factory I made use of. I wouldn't do that basically weren't."
Raised by their grandparents in Hong Kong until they were 10 and 12, when their parents sent for their daughters to become listed on them on the Isle of Wight, both Chois are fluent Cantonese speakers. "It was either operate in our parents' restaurant or apprentice with this uncle Jimmy," says Choi. "Food can be creative, but it doesn't talk to me like shoes do."
While Sandra toiled for Choo in the basic East End workshop (this was the Eighties, way before the glamorous typhoon of Tamara Mellon and venture capitalism transformed it into a global luxury brand), Choi studied business at Birmingham University, then worked for a large IT company in Australia and the UK,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], honing the dark arts of account directing and analysis.
She also designs. The outcomes are simple, wearable classics - deceptively simple, because making a chic mid-heel court shoe is most likely harder than designing something flashier. "This is exactly what I understand and what I like to wear - and I'm likely to do everything to make this business work, in the event that means packing boxes one minute and trend forecasting the following."
When the result of Harvey Nichols - it will be stocking a few of her shoes in most its UK stores - is anything to go by, the Choo/Choi dynasty's just received itself another shoe mogul.
This drought's taking its toll on one's meticulously planned spring wardrobe,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], no? The only method to keep full-on fashion depression away would be to dress while you intended, keeping a compact waterproof to hand - one roomy enoughto slip over your chic jacket or pea-coat. This M one does the trick, with a cheery dash of Lady Docker vulgarity. As for leather,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], sorry, it is a no. This really is about deploying the Super Welly. Ultra shiny and shapely, it may be surprisingly sleek. And it's much more elegant than soggy shoes.
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